DIML: Golden Week

As I’ve hit the halfway mark of my semester abroad, I’ve been reflecting on how much life at Waseda has taught me about Japan, independence, and finding my rhythm on my own. Rather than summing it up, for my mid-semester check-in, I’ll share a DIML (day in my life) at Waseda during Japan’s Golden Week! I’ll walk through a special Saturday in Tokyo—this one was full of walking, street food, swimming, and crying babies.

Time check, 0525: Take the 0539 train from Takadanobaba to Sugamo.

The train arrives promptly every day at the Takadanobaba station, an 18-minute walk from my dorm near Waseda (16 if I walk fast!). I had practice at 6a, and at this point in the semester I’ve figured out exactly what minute I need to leave the dorm to catch the train. The 05:39 is the third train of the day, which means it’s already packed with nightclubbers stumbling home, locals going to work, and travelers going in or out of town.

Good morning!

10:48—Train from Waseda to Ryōgoku Station

Ryōgoku is the historic center of Sumo in Japan and home to the Kokugikan Sumo Stadium. The Kokugikan-dori Street is the second stop of the day for the Ryogoku Nigiwai Festival—a sumo wrestling street festival with street food, chankonabe, and drums. Our 500-yen bowl of steaming chankonabe was the star of the show. Dished out by actual sumo wrestlers and filled with stewed vegetable and pork in dashi stock, chankonabe also means “sumo stew” as sumos have copious amounts of chanko everyday in order to gain weight.

Stefan interviewed by a local reporter covering the event.

Three foodies surrounded by a multitude of food stalls predictable lead to excitement, too many pictures, and wallets considerably lighter.

We tried mitarashi dango, ice cream, and anko taiyaki.

14:00—Walk to Asakusa temple

We walked to the Kokugikan and planned to poke around, but a sumo was match held that day and the stadium was closed to visitors. Instead, we took a 30-minute walk to Asakusa for festival #2: the Nakizumo Crying Baby Festival. This one was a funky one. Winners of a draw held earlier in the year, parents brought their lucky 1-year olds to compete with one another. The winner of each match was determined by which baby cried first. The race was a treacherous one: the little ones were suspended in mid-air, bounced gently around by a sumo wrestler, then faced off against old men with demon masks and commanded by the announcer to “泣け、泣け、泣け” (cry, cry, cry).

The babies weren’t the only ones crying. I can still hear the announcer’s voice in my head.

1630—More food…

After the festival, we were hungry (again). Along the famous Akasuka temple, there are even more street vendors with a variety of options. We had strawberry tanghulu, and right in the middle of strawberry season, nothing really compares to fresh Japanese strawberries.

17:00—Bus to swim!

I took a nap on my 1-hour bus ride back to Sugamo. During Golden Week in Japan, the swimming club I train with has an annual training camp where for 10 days, the swimmers stay on-site and train 3 times a day. I only swam twice a day during this period due to my long commute and classes.

Post-swim selfie!

21:00—Dinner, step count, and goodnight!

I got ingredients to make my final meal of the day from the mini market right outside my dorm. I’m not joking when I say I’ve made this least 3 times a week since arriving in Japan. Cabbage, cherry tomatoes, avocado, crabstick, two soft-boiled eggs, and roasted sesame dressing (trust me).

Reflection

Although we have football Saturdays and the Soda City Market, I’m already thinking about missing constant excitement here in Tokyo. There has never been a dull moment—where Japan’s deeply traditional culture meets its ever-evolving youth scene. Somewhere, something interesting is always happening. 17,000 steps a day doesn’t seem so bad when there are chances like this to experience another culture so fully! During my time left, I want to keep saying yes to food I can’t pronounce, celebration of events unique to Japan, and neighborhoods I haven’t explored yet.